Sacred Sites of Kathmandu: Boudhanath and Pashupatinath

Boudhanath stupa

Nepal may not be a wealthy country in terms of GDP, but it is rich in religious tradition and is home to some of the most significant Buddhist and Hindu sites in the world. The Nepali people’s appreciation and respect for plural religions and their interconnectedness within society also adds to this richness as temples can be seen interspersed every few blocks throughout the city and Buddhists can be seen worshiping at Hindu temples and vice versa.

Statue of Buddha at Boudanath

To get a true sense of the prominent role that religion plays in Nepali society, I had the great fortune to accompany my new friend/tour guide Hari on his motor bike to two of the most sacred and important religious sites in the country—Boudhanath and Pashupathinath—both of which are located in northeastern Kathmandu.

Boudhanath, which translates roughly to “lord of wisdom,” is one of the most sacred Buddhist sites in Nepal. This whitewashed stupa stands at a commanding 43 meters tall; it is truly a religious experience just being in its presence. Boudhanath remains one of the most significant monuments in the world for Buddhist pilgrims and has become the center of life for many Tibetan monks and refugees who have fled their homeland.

Tibetan women prostrating at Boudanath

There are several Tibetan monasteries in the area and monks with shaved heads clad in maroon robes can be seen meditating. Tibetans and Buddhist pilgrims walk around the stupa counterclockwise while spinning prayer wheels or silently reciting a mantra as they count their string of 108 prayer beads, also known as a mala. As we walked around Boudhanath, many older Tibetan women were worshipping by prostrating, or repeatedly kneeling and standing, on worn wooden planks.

Lighting butter lamps at Boudhanath

Although I am not a practicing Buddhist, the religion is a very welcoming and peaceful one and the temples are open to all. I was so moved by this experience that I decided to light three butter lamps—the monk told me that just lighting one is bad luck—to honor and commemorate this moment of my spiritual journey.

Cremation ghats on the banks of the Bagmati River at Pashupatinath

Just a mere 45km from Boudhanath is Nepal’s most important Hindu temple, Pashupatinath, which sits on the banks of the holy Bagmati River. Although this temple is spiritually significant for multiple reasons, it is especially powerful because it is regarded as the most sacred of the temples dedicated to the Hindu God Shiva and honors him in his Pashupati form, Lord of All Animals.

This temple is interesting because it is where Hindus in the Kathmandu Valley and surrounding areas bring their loved ones after they die to cremate them in a traditional ceremony on the banks of the river. As we walked around and observed, families gathered at different cremation ghats along the river. The deceased were wrapped in colorful cloth and carried there by their family members, often coming from hours away.

Cremation at Pashupatinath 

Following Hindu tradition, after the body is placed on a wooden pyre the sons of the deceased will circle around the body three times. Then, the oldest son is responsible for lighting the body beginning with the mouth. After the cremation, the family members must return home to shower, and then the sons will be in a period of grieving for 13 days when they will live separately from their families and can only eat rice and ginger. After this grieving period, they have to wear only white for one year.

Shiva shrines lined up in a row

Across the river from the cremation ghats, dozens of Shiva shrines are scattered throughout the stone grounds and it is here where the Babas, or holy men, live. These are men—and sometimes women, but mainly men—who denounce society and religion and choose to leave their families and all of their possessions to live in what appears to be the equivalent of a commune. They all live together and meditate in the morning and evening and smoke marijuana throughout the day.

The Babas live very simply together and have no need for money or other material things, although they often beg for food. In Nepali society, if a Baba comes to your home you are expected to give them food. I received conflicting answers about why this is; some people told me that it is out of respect—because Nepalis are known for their hospitality regardless of who the visitor is—whereas others said it is out of fear. Regardless, it seems that the genuine holy men are respected, but today there are more “frauds” who become a Baba to escape their families or life responsibilities.

Poster of the Milk Baba next to his home in Pashupatinath

Perhaps the most famous of the holy men is the Milk Baba, who lives at Pashupatinath and can predict peoples’ future by reading their palms. Since he was 11 years old, he has existed by only drinking milk in the morning and evening. He has become a sort of legend among the Nepali Sadhus and can be found  meditating or worshiping at the ancient temple.